Thursday, June 2, 2011

Installing a Zipper Into a Lined Garment

A couple years ago I made the decision to line most of the costumes I make. It makes the costume look better from the inside and can keep the outside looking better when wearing it. This decision did bring with it some complications, such as, how to install a zipper if the garment needs one. After making many lined garments with zippers this is the way I install one. Just as a side note, I have decided that I HATE invisible zippers and will probably never use one again. If I have to hide the zipper I will just make the fold over of one of the sides longer, so as to make a flap.
So, on to the tutorial.

Materials needed:

Sewing machine with zipper foot 
Garment you are installing the zipper in, and zipper




Determine the length and color of your zipper.

100_1828  I am installing my zipper in to the back of a 2 color dress, the top is purple and the bottom is pink. Because the majority of the seam I am installing the zipper at is purple, I am using a purple 24inch zipper.



Attaching the Zipper to the Lining

Pin the outside edge of the zipper tape to the right side of the lining, with the zipper facing up:
Either at the edge of your fabric, or aligning the zipper to your stitching line. I am aligning my zipper to the edge of my fabric because I am using about 1/2 inch seam allowances. If you have a larger seam allowance you would move the zipper tape in from the edge of the fabric. Also, you can over lap the zipper if you do not want it to show. Pin straight across the tape, going under the zipper coil. Depending on your preference, you can pin from the top of the zipper or from where bottom, placing the end of the zipper where you ended the seam you are installing the zipper in. I started from the top because I need the seam where the top meets the skirt to match on both sides of the zipper.
100_1833Sew the zipper tape to the fabric:
I run my zipper foot along the outside edge of the tape and have the needle on the inside of the foot. So, in this picture on the left of the zipper foot.

Pin the other zipper tape to the other half of the lining:100_1834
Unzip and open out the zipper. Pin the outside edge of the zipper tape to the other half or the lining, right side up, with the zipper facing up. Pin straight across the tape. I usually pin from the outside to the inside.

Sew the zipper tape to the fabric:
Again I position my zipper foot at the outside edge of the tape with the needle on the left of the foot. I run the machine fairly slowly while putting in zippers so as to maintain control. Be careful not to stich over the coil itself otherwise you will not be able to zip the zipper.


The zipper is now attached to the inside of the lining so that when you fold back the seam allowances,  the right side of the zipper is between the layers of the garment.

Attaching the Zipper to the Outside Fabric:

100_1840Fold and/or press your seam allowances:
Because I am using a Satin of indeterminate origin—I did not buy it—I do not know how safe it would be to iron it so I am folding and creasing the seam allowances by hand. With fabrics I know it is safe to use an iron on, I press my seam allowances.

100_1841Pin your seam allowance to one half of the zipper tape:

Place the folded edge close to the zipper coil, but not right against it. If you want the fabric to over lap the zipper, you can place it passed the coil. I have found that this does make it a little more difficult to zip and unzip the zipper.

100_1844Sew the seam:
I place the right edge of my zipper foot approximately 1/8 inch from the edge of my fabric, and the needle to the right of my foot. Between the edge of the fabric and the foot. Because my garment has 2 colors of fabric I have to change my thread at that seam. I back stitch a few stitches when I get to it.

100_1849Repeat the last two steps on the other half of the seam. And you have installed the zipper.



100_1854As a finishing touch I like to sew across the bottom of the  zipper.

This keeps the end of the zipper tape in place. It is also how you shorten a Zipper if it is too long.

100_1858Because my garment is 2 colors and the zipper is a dark color I needed to add a flap to the pink part of the skirt.

This flap covers the zipper so that the purple coil cant be seen. Because it wasn’t planed for it looks a little rough. I added it between the zipper tape and the folded edge of the outer fabric.

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